With our failure to get to Segovia the day before, we decided fuck it, let's just book a tour and we can visit Segovia and Avila at the same time. So we set off bright and early to our designated meeting spot and after a coffee and some breakfast, jumped on the bus. I spend half my life on tour buses. Not complaining.
First stop was Segovia. Now I vaguely remember my first trip to Segovia - it was around 35 years ago, so the details are sketchy. We arrived and jumped off the bus, and there it is in all its Roman glory. The famous aqueduct, built in the 2nd century AD, it's one of the greatest works of Roman engineering. With its 167 granite arches, it transported water to the city for almost 2,000 years. It is made up of stone blocks joined together without mortar, using an ingenious balance of forces. Declared as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985, this monument is seen as the emblem of the city - well that and the roast-suckling pig.
We started with a tour, including of course the aqueduct and a stroll around town to the giant gothic Cathedral - quick peek. Interesting. Free time, so we headed to the other major drawcard - the Alcazar. This is no ordinary Alcázar, this one looks like it was built by Disney. It’s the kind of castle that whispers, “A princess definitely lost a shoe here,” while a knight in the background mutters, “And I definitely tripped over it.” Sadly, not enough time to go in, so another place I will need to return to and find the Princess.
And then of course, time for lunch and there was really only one thing we wanted to eat cochinillo. Slight hiccup, Fiona doesn't really eat pork. On the recommendation of our guide, we went to Restaurante Jose Maria. It was good - but not the best I've had, so will need to come back to eat that again also. Mind you, it was very sad looking at that little tail - so maybe it's time to pass on the baby piggy.
We legged it back to our meeting spot, only to make what I can only describe as a huge rookie mistake. And I'm a tour leader - I should not make these mistakes. We stood in the wrong spot - along with another couple. Luckily after a few panicked calls, we made it to our bus and did the walk of shame down the aisle, avoiding the looks.
Next stop, Avila, in Castilla Leon. At an elevation of over 1,130m, it is the highest provincial capital in Spain. Sometimes called the "City of Stones and Saints" its well-preserved medieval architecture and it's old walls, were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. Would you look at that, 2 UNESCO sites in 1-day. Must put together that list and mark them off! I do love me a good list.
Once again our tour guide took us on a walking tour. You step through those giant stone walls and immediately expect someone to hand you a quest like, “Brave traveler, fetch me three enchanted yemas de Santa Teresa.”
Those walls are impressive and someone obviously said. “No thanks, we’ll keep all our original fortifications, just in case the Visigoths come back.” They look so perfect I suspect some industrial‑strength super glue has been used. Will future generations look back at our Westfields with the same sense of awe?
The cathedral is half church, half fortress, like it couldn’t decide whether to save your soul or defend you from a siege, so it just went, “Fine, I’ll do both.”
And then there’s yemas de Santa Teresa—the famous bright‑yellow sweets that the nuns make (along with all the other pastry makers in town). Actually, we didn't try them. I've had them before - too sweet, so we had a vino tinto instead.
Ávila: where the architecture is dramatic, the sweets are dangerous, and every corner feels like a place where a knight might pop out and say, “Halt! Have you tried our local pastries?”
And we made it back to the bus on time.
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