A few days free in Bilbao. I had already added Guernica to the list, but while working out how to get there, I spotted this amazing piece of coastline with a Hermita sitting prettily on the top. It's come to more recent fame thanks to Game of Thrones. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe gave life to Rocadragon (dragonstone), the fortress of the Targaryen house. I've never watched GoT, so that means absolutely nothing to me, but the place looked impressive.
The origin of the hermitage dates back to the IX century. Over the years, its had various uses and has been attacked, destroyed and rebuilt - most recently in 1978, when it was set on fire.
We set off from Bilbao under a brilliant blue sky and Gaztelugatxe was our 1st stop. OK, now we have to walk down the cliff to then begin the climb up to the hermita. First mistake, I'd mentally prepared for the 241 steps up, but not the steep walk down to where the stone walkway begins.
Toughen up Jules, I told myself and began the walk down. The scenery was spectacular as the Bay of Biscay came into view followed by the stone walkway with the Hermitage perched on top. 20 minutes later, it was time to begin the climb.
I started the walk thinking, “I'll take it slow and this will be scenic and peaceful.” Five minutes later I was breathing like one of the GoT dragons with asthma, while a 70‑year‑old Basque amona (abuela/nanna) casually sped by.
When I finally reached the top, instead of feeling spiritual enlightenment, all I felt was my legs quivering and my knees getting ready to file a formal complaint. Once I was able to breath somewhat normally, I could admire the spectacular view.
There's a famous tradition when you get to the top to ring the bell of the chapel 3 times to bring good luck and ward off evil spirits. Unfortunately, the rope has been removed. Apparently the noise disturbs the nesting seabirds and of course we couldn't be having that.
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe: come for the scenery, stay because you physically can’t walk back down. But eventually I did. Our tour bus was leaving at 11.45 and I needed to be on it. So after a short rest and a few pics, I began the climb down those 241 stone steps. Legs quivered, but easier on the heart. But of course looming ahead was the climb back up to where the bus dropped us off. 1.5km. Not far. Slow and steady, regular stops. Made it. Feeling accomplished.
Add comment
Comments