In Edinburgh, a "close" is a narrow alleyway leading off the main streets of the Old Town - and there are a lot of them. Historically they were named after the residents or tradespeople who lived there back in the 17th Century. I wandered down several of these little alleyways, many of which are said to be haunted.
The Real Mary King’s Close, just off the Royal Mile, offers tours to wander the underground streets providing a glimpse into the (not very nice) lives of those who lived there. Named after Mary King, a merchant, it was voted Best Visitor Attraction in the UK by Tripadviser in the 2024 Traveler's Choice awards. Big call - not sure I'd agree with that, but its obviously popular.
Booked myself onto a tour and imagine this: You willingly pay money to be led underground by a young man in 17th‑century clothing who tells you, with great enthusiasm, that everyone who once lived there had a terrible life.
It’s the only tourist attraction where:
-
You enter thinking, “This will be educational,” and leave thinking, “I’m amazed anyone in the 1600s survived long enough to invent whisky, let along breed and continue the human race.”
-
The guide cheerfully says things like, “This room belonged to a family of ten,” and you look around and realise the room is roughly the size of your wardrobe - and I don't mean those fancy Kardashian ones.
-
You spend half the tour wondering whether the ghosts are real, and the other half wondering whether the guide is paid extra to scare you.
- You keep an ear out for a shout of "Guardaloo" As it's the 2nd time in 2 days I've been told about this, I'm beginning to wander if it still occurs. What does it mean? Well it's a polite way of shouting watch out below, chamber pot contents incoming. Honestly, it's the most dramatic H&S announcement ever invented.
- You learn that the Plague Doctor was a medieval healthcare professional distinguished by their long beaked mask, which made them look like a crow who’d just been promoted to middle management.
-
And of course, there’s Annie’s Room, where visitors leave dolls for a ghost child. Nothing says “fun day out” like descending into a dark chamber full of toys for a spirit who may or may not be judging your life choices.
Not sure if it deserves it's Tripadviser title, but it was "enjoyable" in that weird way. It’s the only place where you can learn history, feel spooked, and question your own complaining about lack of space or privacy. Not to mention feel very grateful for todays plumbing as you use the modern loos on your way out.
Add comment
Comments