Greyfriars Kirkyard is the graveyard surrounding Greyfriars Kirk (yep a Kirk is a church) and it tops many a list as the most haunted cemetery in the world. Now I do love a good cemetery. My name is Julia and I am a Taphophile. What's a Taphophile? A taphophile is "someone who is interested in cemeteries, gravestones, and the art and history that goes along with them. So this of course was one that I had to visit, especially when I heard the story of Bobby.
Greyfriars Bobby (4 May 1855 – 14 January 1872) was a Skye Terrier who became known in 19th-century Edinburgh for reportedly spending 14 years guarding the grave of his owner, John Gray, until his death. The story has been told through various books and even a film. In 1867 the lord provost (a link, because I too had no idea what a lord provost was) of Edinburgh paid for Bobby's license and gave him a collar, which is now in the Museum Edinburgh. I went along and saw that too and there is lots of info and love for this little dog. The accuracy of the story is often questioned, but I think it's lovely and we all need a goon news story.
There are several monuments to Greyfriars Bobby, including the fountain with a life-size statue of Bobby created in 1872 - it's Edinburgh's smallest listed structure. This is the one with the shiny nose that tourist rub for luck. How did that become a thing? Rubbing statues bits for luck? Weird. There is also Greyfriars Bobby's Bar, a pub located nearby. Greyfriars Bobby's headstone, was erected by The Dog Aid Society of Scotland and reads, "Greyfriars Bobby – Died 14 January 1872 – Aged 16 years – Let his loyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all". And finally in 2021, to mark the 150th anniversary of Bobby's death, a new monument was placed inside Greyfriars Kirk.
Back to the cemetery itself, my walking tour of Edinburgh ended here. It's the only cemetery where you can go for a peaceful stroll and accidentally join a ghost tour, a Harry Potter pilgrimage, and someone trying to summon the spirit of their lost great Uncle Fergus - all at the same time.
The gravestones are so old and dramatic that half of them look like they’re auditioning for a Tim Burton film. And then there’s the infamous Mackenzie Poltergeist, who apparently spends his afterlife lightly assaulting tourists -because even in death, Edinburgh takes its position as most haunted cemetery very seriously.
Harry Potter-heads go off in search of "famous" tombs whose residents inspired J K Rowlings. Why Hello Messrs. Tom Riddle, Robert Potter and Sirius Black, amongst others.
Honestly, Greyfriars Kirkyard is the only place where you can say, “I’m just popping out for some fresh air,” and return with a ghost story, a Latin inscription you can’t translate, and a photo of a tomb you’re 90% sure inspired Voldemort. On the day, I did not encounter any ghostly spirits. It was only 12pm though so I'm unsure if there is more action at midnight, but tbh, it's a creepy place and I'm not sure I'd be brave enough to return at the witching hour.
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